By Claire Bradley, The Circle’s Economic Justice Coordinator
On 24 April 2013, 1,134 garment workers and their children were killed in Bangladesh when Rana Plaza – the building they were working in – collapsed. At the time, workers were earning about £1 a day, often working up to 16 hours.
Large cracks had appeared in the building the day before the tragedy. Workers were initially sent home but were later told they would lose a month’s pay if they did not return the next day, as urgent orders needed to be completed.
The building contained several garment factories employing around 5,000 people, as well as a nursery where workers could leave their children while they worked. The factories produced clothes for well‑known international fashion brands.
Most of the garment workers were women. They were paid about £33 a month, making clothes for some of the most profitable companies in the world.
A top view of Rana plaza building which collapse at Savar, near Dhaka, Bangladesh. Credit: Sk Hasan Ali
After the disaster, many fast fashion brands promised to change their practices, respect human and labour rights, and pay workers properly. But in reality, these promises, based on voluntary standards, have largely not been kept.
Millions of women around the world working in the fast fashion industry are still not paid a living wage. Many experience violence and harassment, including sexual abuse, and are punished for standing up for their rights, even for demanding safe working conditions.
The Circle, together with our frontline partners, has long argued that garment workers should be paid a living wage, not just a minimum wage.
Minimum wages are often far too low. They force women to work long hours, keep them away from their children, and leave them financially insecure. This instability makes women garment workers more vulnerable to exploitation, including being pressured into sexual “favours” in exchange for extra work.
A living wage, however, is an hourly rate of pay, set independently of the government, calculated to meet the basic cost of living. This includes taking into consideration housing, food, childcare, and travel – allowing workers to maintain a decent standard of living.
Garment workers block roads as they take part in a protest demanding an increase in their wages in Dhaka, Bangladesh. Credit: Mamunur Rashid
The Circle has spent many years campaigning for laws that require fashion companies to pay a living wage throughout their global supply chains, both in the European Union and the UK.
It felt like a real success when the EU introduced groundbreaking legislation in 2024.
This new law required companies that make goods outside the EU, but sell them within the EU, to check their supply chains and ensure human and labour rights are respected.
Most importantly, the policy included living wages as a human right. This was a major step forward. The Circle was especially pleased to learn that our advocacy had helped shape the social aspects of this important legislation.
However, the EU weakened this legislation earlier this year.
Under the new amendments, many obligations have been delayed for years and now only apply to companies with a turnover above €1.5bn, excluding most businesses.
As a result, garment workers in Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and millions of women worldwide continue to earn poverty wages and be harmed by unfair business practices.
Activists of Bangladesh Federation of Worker Solidarity held a protest rally demanding justice for Rana Plaza building collapse victim in front of High Court in Dhaka, Bangladesh. Credit: Mamunur Rashid
The UK government has so far resisted passing similar laws that would force companies to protect the human and labour rights of workers in their global supply chains, including the right to a living wage.
The Circle, as part of the Corporate Justice Coalition, is calling on the Labour government to act now. We need a Business, Human Rights and Environment Act to protect women and prevent future tragedies like Rana Plaza.
Here’s how you can take action now:
- Contact your MP and push for enforceable laws that protect workers and stop profits being made at the cost of lives.
- Join our network in speaking out and standing in solidarity with the most marginalised women and girls across the globe
- Learn more about Living Wage
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